Offering up an inviting bouquet of warm biscuits, buttery pastry, dried fruits, lemon oil and blanched almonds, it's medium to full-bodied, vinous and incisive, with fine concentration and an elegant pearly mousse. Its bright spine of acidity is a touch assertive on the finish, but in all other respects this is an impressively seamless, sophisticated offering that certainly takes this label's offerings to another level.